Woensdag 30 November 2011

TO STOP YOUR DOG FROM CHASING YOUR CAT



Robbie and Tibby weren't always best friends -
Robbie just needed some coaching to get there!
IF YOU DO NOT WANT YOUR DOG TO CHASE YOUR CAT...you have to disagree with the behaviour consistently and pro-actively. 

The methodology below is also relevant to stop your dog from chasing your rabbit, guinea pig, ferret...

One - Make sure you are calm (without excess emotion),and ready to coach with fair, firm confidence. Don't be aggressive; don't raise your voice in anger.

Two - Lead...addressing from a distance is not leadership! Calmly but with assurance get up and walk over to your dog. If you need to move a distance - fine, move quickly, deliberately, confidently - not panicked or excited! Don't match your dog's state, if you do so, you lead by the wrong example.

Three - Get your dog's attention, you can touch your dog firmly but quickly with your fingers - at its neck or waist, you can snap your fingers and say 'hey' firmly, but not with anger. Never touch or talk in anger as you then lead by the wrong example!

Four - Tell your dog what you want i.e. 'no, don't touch' and then say 'leave it' I have ten dogs - different breeds, from tiny to large - they all understand this type of direction...as do the dogs I work with for my clients. Direct your dog, don't whine and complain to your dog...for example... 'I wish you wouldn't so that' or 'Oh, stop that' and so on.

Five - Tell your dog what you would like it to do instead i.e. 'go sit down' etc.

Six - If your dog gets back up and moves forward to start the chase again...you can either use your voice as noted above or you can herd your dog. Herding is accomplished by using your body to herd your dog away - back it out of the space by walking into the space your dog is occupying or use your body by leaning in or toward your dog, you can block the space with your foot, or even just slightly move your foot out or your knee, you can then point them away with your hand/arm and say /no', go lie down...and make sure that they do!

Seven - Follow through...if your dog goes does go to chase again follow through by repeating step one to five - don't get angry, simply correct as per the steps above. This is a test of wills, persistence, determination - you have to be more committed and more determined than your dogs is...and you must take a leadershipposition not a dominate, angry, excited position.



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  • Training;
  • Behaviour Modification;
  • Rehabilitation;
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Whether you are experiencing dog behavior problems and would like assistance, or just want to bring your dog up to be a well-balanced canine -  I offer both a local and international service for people with one or multiple dogs. 

I work with all breeds - from small (i.e. Yorkie, Pomeranian, Chihuahua, etc.), medium breeds size (including Pit Bulls) and large breed dogs...
 
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Sessions, Advice via email for National and International Clients - Dog Training, Puppy Training, Behaviour Modification, Nutrition, Health 

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Notes:
Please note - this article is for information purposes and is not a substitute for an in-person Session with me. When working with dogs I use many techniques - it is important to note that this article may touch on one or several techniques but not all. I select the technique that I use for a particular dog based on my observations of the dog and an intuitive, instinctive assessment of that dog's and its human's individual requirements. For example when I am working with a dog that is hyper sensitive and very physically reactive I will not use voice or touch. I use a lot of therapeutic touch on some dogs, others require the use of herding techniques and so on. Each and every technique must be combined with:
  • an understanding of the real intelligence, sensitivity and capability of dogs;
  • an understanding of how to read a dog's face and a dog's overall body language;
  • an understanding of the full spectrum of ways that humans communicate and dogs communicate; 
  • understanding and recognition of the individual that is each dog - no two dogs are the same...taking a 'cookie cutter' approach to techniques is not the way to work with a dog;
  • a complete recognition and understanding of all the elements that feed a behaviour and create an issue:
    •  the vast majority of people can only identify one or two elements...which vastly inhibits the ability to resolve behavior issues;
    • behaviours do not exist in isolation - there are always many elements that feed a single behaviour, there all always multiple behaviours that create a behavioral issue;
  • self-restraint and discipline on the part of the human who is directing the dog;
  • sensitivity, awareness, intuition, instinct and timing on the part of the human who is directing the dog;
    • to understand, connect with and adapt quickly and effectively to a dog's learning requirements you must be able to employ the same tools a dog uses - acute sensitivity, awareness, instinct, intuition and timing;
  • kindness, endurance, consideration, patience, persistence, perspective, the ability and know how to let the past go, the ability to set realistic expectations at any one point in time;
  • the creation of structure, rules, boundaries and limitations for each situation at the macro and micro level;
  • understanding of all the elements that make up an instruction and direction to a dog...there are multiple steps involved in an instruction - not just one!
  • absolute honesty - if you cannot be honest with yourself you will not be able to communicate clearly with a dog.
These are just some of the techniques that I teach my clients - it is a holistic, all-encompassing approach. If you are missing any one element of the above mentioned your success rate will be affected to one degree or another in implementing the techniques offered in the article presented above.









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