SO, WHAT ABOUT THE INTELLIGENCE OF DOGS

I believe…I know…

Each dog has its own unique personality. The full ranges of personalities we see in humans exist in dogs - the main difference being that cruelty is unique to humans…this attribute does not exist in dogs.

I don't think we really know the intelligence level of dogs - in the sense of limits.

Dogs rely on instinct, intuition, they use so many of their senses that humans have forgotten how to use, and have other senses that we do not even understand or know about. I believe most Modern-day humans have lost the most important intelligences...common sense, instinct and intuition and with that has gone their sense of humility. Humans are not the most intelligent creature on this earth. The type of intelligence human's posses seems to create a population where cruelty, arrogance, insensitivity and stupidity exist in abundance. Empathy and the will to really learn, see and grow is a rarity.

Dogs dream and have nightmares. As individuals, they have their own likes and dislikes when it comes to food. As each person has their own individual palette tending to salty, sweet etc, so too do dogs.

Dogs talk back, they engage in conversations with each other and with us, they smile, they feel joy, depression, grief and many of the emotions that we do. They know how to manipulate their humans to get what they think they want much as humans do with other humans.

They enjoy comfort (couches, beds, etc.). Dogs thrive in an environment that offers structure and work, as do humans.

There are some big differences but many commonalities.

Dogs are not cruel, but many humans are. Dogs do not hold grudges, they hold associations - much easier to change than a grudge is! They enjoy 'human food' (human food is animal food after all!) however we do not enjoy dog kibble...at least most of us humans do not. My dogs love fruits and vegetables, yogurt, fish, eggs etc. They would, no doubt like fast food too - but they will not be getting any from me...only pizza!

I think the biggest thing that humans tend to forget is to employ common sense and not indulge in hypocrisy. For example, when a human yells at their dog to stop barking, the human is barking too. When the human yells at their dog and the human is angry, frustrated, dominating etc. the human is in no better a state than the dog is in - this is hypocrisy. This lacks common sense, and does not consider the intelligence of the dog. Would you follow the directions of some one that was not in control of them selves? No, neither would a dog - it is not how we accord respect, it is not how dogs do either.

Humans get so caught up in their own emotions they forget how much they affect others. In general humans tend to be emotionally reactive and less observant than dogs. Humans must train themselves to be aware of how they communicate (their body language etc.) whereas dogs are aware naturally. I think humans were at one time too - but we lost this ability in the modern evolution of society and technology.

I see so many similarities between dog and man. But as technology evolves, humans shed those fundamental tools that can make a human being a good person - while on the other hand dogs remain true to those gifts of nature - instinct, intuition, common sense.

Non-human animals such as dogs and elephants most definitely grieve at the passing of a loved one.

I know dogs that understand right from wrong better than many humans do. 

I swear I did not do it!

Do they know right from wrong exactly as we may see right from wrong in any one given situation...on some occasions yes and others no. But, hey, assessment and understanding of right from wrong varies between one human and the next. Worse, some humans care not what is wrong but instead only for what they want.

Truly, it was not me...

If one of my bunnies picks a fight with another of my bunnies...guess who is their ASAP to intervene and break up the fight, gently but effectively...Tasha, my Australian Shepherd...I never taught her to do this. She is also very maternal. Herding instinct you say...go ahead be sighted blind if you wish...

Thank you for believing in me!

How do people learn right from wrong? A child who takes another child's toy will not necessarily 'back down' and return the toy just because the other child is upset. An adult must (in most cases) teach the child right from wrong.

Of my 10 dogs, some just naturally would not take from another while others had to be taught the same way I taught my daughter. There is no difference.

If I pull an apple off my apple tree and say 'OK guys' my dogs will gather around and wait for me to distribute pieces of the apple in a fair manner. They sit in a circle around me and respectfully wait. If one gets a little pushy I look at the dog and they know to back off and be polite. As long as everyone treats each other with respect in this situation there are not fights. Fights only occur when 'fairness' is not unilateral...dogs know.

HOW DOGS ASSIGN RESPECT

Most dogs, will instinctively know what they are being asked to do if they are communicated with & shown in the right way at the right time and provided with the right tools to navigate safely and confidently through situations.

If the dog’s guardian has not learned how to read their own dog, is not aware of their own emotions, tone, etc, at the time that they are interacting with their dog - the message that they are trying to give their dog can end up being completely different than what was desired. The impact of such inadvertent mistakes in handling communication can be profound and exponentially harmful.

Further to that, too many people rely solely on ‘voice ‘to communicate with their dogs. People communicate to their dogs constantly via their own state-of-being, position of their body, the scents arising from emotional state. Dogs use their senses (sight, scent sound) more keenly and consciously than people do. They read stress and emotion in people before a person is even aware of how they themselves feel. A little tension in a persons shoulder, clinching of a hand, tightness of the lips, narrowing or widening of the eyes, change in breathing, sweating). Most people have not trained themselves and as such are totally unaware that they are communicating all this information. The impact of this is also far-reaching.

A dogs `natural `kit-of-tools` for communication - scent, sight, sound, their own state of being, the position of their body (or parts thereof), touch and voice is comprehensive. When a human does not know how to beneficially and consciously use these tools to communicate and relies on voice only the result on any dog, more so on a very sensitive dog, can be traumatic.

As humans we habitually approach/react too often from a raw state of emotion – this is an approach that can instantaneously overwhelm the more acute senses of a dog. I firmly believe that gaining an awareness of how you as an individual have habitulized this normal ‘modern-day human’ approach is key to having a better relationship with your dog.

Dogs require coaching as do their human guardians to support and enable the best in each other and their relationship. Dogs require that their humans be sensitive and aware Pack Leaders – not dominators. There is a profound difference between dominating your dog and providing it instead with the right type of Leadership to suit the dog as an individual & a breed.

The human's approach, investment of time and energy into the dog-canine relationship can have an enormous impact on the dog's psychological, adaptive, etc. development. Breed matters to some degree, but I believe the over ridding factor is not breed it is the individual dog's access to the right learning environment. Hey, much like it is for people too!

The expectation of many people is that their dog will inherently respect them. It is an erroneous expectation and assumption, based on a cultural belief rather than on psychology and the reality of the situation. It is also the first place where the human-dog relationship can really get off-track. When the expectation is not fulfilled, the human can become upset, frustrated at best. The negative impact on the psychological health of the dog can be profound.

First, you must understand a little of the psychology of humans & the psychology of dogs. To better understand, examine how you, as an individual accord respect to others. There are various levels of respect.

Respect - Level 1: Common respect is really a type of courteously that we give to people when we first encounter/meet them. If you have no prior knowledge of the person and the person is non-threatening you are probably going to be pleasant to them. But would you trust them with your health and well being? Likelynot. You would sit back, observe them and try to ‘pick-up’ some knowledge of their approach to situations, based on a rating system of criteria that you set. As an example you would want to know if the person is rationale and logical, capable and able to make good decisions. Are they kind and caring? Do they have your best interests in mind or only theirs? Are the decisions and actions that they take, considered and considerate or reactive and based solely on excess emotion?

Respect - Level 2: If the person has met your criteria then you will accord them the second level of respect. This type of respect moves beyond the realm of common courtesy into a fundamental belief that this person is worthy of your trust - that they can be expected to make decisions that will enable your health and well being. This person can be trusted to lead you in the right direction - this person is a Leader. This level of respect must be earned. It cannot be accorded by one person to another by means of force - the result would be fear and/or servitude, not respect.

Now examine how a dog accords respect; basically the same way a human would - as described above.

To obtain a Level 2 respect rating from your dog, you need to show that you are a firm, but fair LEADER who can and will make the right decisions at the right time in the right way. To do this, you need to be able to 'read' your dog. You need to be able to understand what your dog requires. You need to be aware of what you are really communicating to your dog and how you are communicating. Your dog needs to know that you can lead and direct it in a calm and confident manner in all facets of its life. When you have shown your dog that you can do this - you have earned their full respect.

Here are some examples to help you better understand how this works…
Your dog may always greet you calmly, but when it meets another person it may behave very differently. If a new person greats your dog in an overly excited manner, your dog may choose to greet this person in an excited manor - the new person has engendered this response. If another new person is nervous, your dog may shy away from this person, or may even bar his teeth at this person, give a low growl etc. The person who is nervous is insecure...this creates a situation were your dog has to consider if this person is unpredictable or trustworthy. Your dog shows great instinct as this person may make illogical decisions based on their own nervous, insecure state.

On the other hand, if a new person is calm, confident and kind your dog will sense this, it will observe the person, and depending on the strength of the persons confidence may almost instantaneously accord them a higher respect level.

I see this all the time in my client's dogs. The dog may treat them very differently than it treats me. When I wake into a client's home I start to earn their dog's respect right away. The dog may have a long record of barking, running around and jumping on visitors...but when I walk in and provide instruction to the dog right away (without using my voice) the dog responds by calming down. The dog’s first instruction comes from my state of being - I am calm, confident and I own the personal space directly around me with my confidence - body and mind. This is the dog’s first instruction. I may provide a small gesture with my hand - second part of the communication. The dog’s people usually cannot even see what I have done, yet they are shocked that their dog has suddenly sat down quietly or comes to greet me silently just using their nose to sniff my legs. This is an example of how I can earn respect in the space of seconds.

Having then met me, the dog may run through a doorway or down the stairs in front of its 'master', it may pull its master on a walk, but it will not do any of these things to me. It will wait for me to go through the door, or down the stairs. It will walk beside or behind me, without any instruction from me other than my own presence of mind (calm, confident). Why because I earned the dogs respect. How, by instructing it, when I first walked through that door in a way it was able to understand - something its own people had never been able to do.

Dogs will respect those people who have earned their respect. Other people will receive various levels of respect or not from your dog according to how the people behave (emotional & physical state)...that is basically how it works!



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• Training;
• Behaviour Modification;
• Rehabilitation;
• Nutrition;
• Health

Whether you are experiencing dog behavior problems and would like assistance, or just want to bring your dog up to be a well-balanced canine -  I offer both a local and international service for people with one or multiple dogs.

I work with all breeds - from small (i.e. Yorkie, Pomeranian, Chihuahua, etc.), medium breeds size (including Pit Bulls) and large breed dogs... 

International e-Consultation 

Sessions, Advice via email for National and International Clients - Dog Training, Puppy Training, Behaviour Modification, Nutrition, Health 

In-person SessionsDog Training, Puppy Training, Behaviour Modification, Rehabilitation – Ottawa, Ottawa Area, Outaouais, Ottawa Valley

A GOOD DOG-TO-DOG MEETING

As pack leader our role in a dog-to-dog meeting is to coach and mentor, not to stress and panic!

Teaching your dog good social manners with other dogs starts with training yourself.

STEP ONE

Make sure you are not tense, stressed or anticipating reactive behaviour (what you probably think of as aggressive) from your dog. To lead by example you must be without any such emotions. You must be (calm) and have confidence in yourself and in your dog. Your state of calm, confidence will set the framework for your dog’s state. If your thoughts and body language are relaxed and confident you indicate to your dog that you are confident with the situation - this allows your dog to relax and normalize the experience of meeting another dog.

If greetings have not always gone well in the past and you anticipate that this new greeting will also go badly - I assure you, you are right - it will not go well! Dogs are very sensitive and use their senses (sight, scent, sound) more keenly and consciously than people do. They read stress & emotion in people before a person is even aware of how they themselves feel. They do look at our face to read our reactions. A little tension in a persons shoulder, clinching of a hand, tightness of the lips, narrowing or widening of the eyes, change in breathing, sweating. They know what you are thinking, what you are feeling! The affect of our state-of-being on our dogs is profound. If you anticipate trouble you create trouble! You create tension and sometimes all that is required to trigger reactivity in your dog is a little nervousness. This tells your dog that you are not in control and therefore it cannot trust you or the situation. Your dog becomes insecure and nervous, even fearful. This is the trigger for reactivity - what you see as aggression.

So train yourself to control your thoughts, your emotion and direct your focus. Only then can you properly support your dog. Remember you communicate with your state-of-mind, and hence your body…not just by the words or tone you use to speak.

STEP TWO

Coach your dog. If your dog growls disagree - touch your dog with the tip of your fingers, quickly and firmly and say 'no' immediately upon hearing the growl. You have seconds in which to 'disagree' - if you wait any longer your dog will not understand what you are disagreeing with. When you disagree always be calm, confident - never angry, frustrated, tense, etc. Otherwise you will be leading by example - but it is the wrong example!

When we attempt to direct our dogs and we are in an emotional state - we lose our audience. Dogs do not like hypocrisy any more than humans do. In fact I believe they are even less accepting of it! Dogs will respect those people who have earned their respect. Other people will receive various levels of respect or not from your dog according to how the people behave.

STEP THREE

Make sure that your dog is calm before it approaches another dog. If your dog is reactive, stop, disagree (touch if you need to reinforce, and say 'no' firmly) and tell your dog what you would like it to do instead (for example - sit).

A very big mistake I see people making (and I teach my client’s not to make!) is to give half of a direction. It is all very well to tell your dog ‘no’ or ‘stop’ but you also need to tell your dog what you would like it to do instead. I always say a full direction to your dog should consist of several steps: a) attention, b) direction, c) correction if required and d) follow through as required.

So get your dogs attention first (you can say ‘shh!, ‘hey’, snap your fingers or touch), and let them know what you do not want them to do, then let them know what you do want them to do. If they do not get it right don’t be angry or frustrated, instead be patient. Remember you are working…your job is to coach and mentor, lead by example.

Once your dog is calm, you can move forward and approach the other dog...always set the framework...if dog is not calm stop...get him to calm and then move forward.

STEP FOUR

If your dog is too rough or too insistent (pushy, dominating) when greeting another dog, you need to disagree with your dog’s behaviour. For instance your dog places his paws on the other dogs back, tries to mount the other dog, etc. Touch your dog and say 'no' and then say 'gentle'. Touch gets his attention, 'no' to indicate the behaviour is not appropriate and 'gentle' to provide the right direction. This is coaching/mentoring.

STEP FIVE

Encourage your dog to use its noise to greet another dog. A dog’s sense of smell is acute. In its natural state, dogs greet each other by smelling each other - not by jumping all over each other in an excited state. Excited greetings occur because the human has taught the dog that greeting (a human or another dog) requires excitement. This is not a dog’s way. It is a human’s way. To teach this type of greeting de-normalizes the experience for a dog. Make greeting normal.

USE THIS TECHNIQUE TO MODERATE PLAY TOO!

You can use these same techniques if your dog plays too roughly with another dog. Go up to the dogs, be calm but deliberately confident - get their attention (as described above), direct, correct and follow through.

So the next time you have the opportunity to introduce your dog to another dog - remember don’t anticipate the worst, instead create the best!


---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

• Training;
• Behaviour Modification;
• Rehabilitation;
• Nutrition;
• Health

Whether you are experiencing dog behavior problems and would like assistance, or just want to bring your dog up to be a well-balanced canine -  I offer both a local and international service for people with one or multiple dogs. 

I work with all breeds - from small (i.e. Yorkie, Pomeranian, Chihuahua, etc.), medium breeds size (including Pit Bulls) and large breed dogs...

 

International e-Consultation 

Sessions, Advice via email for National and International Clients - Dog Training, Puppy Training, Behaviour Modification, Nutrition, Health 

In-person SessionsDog Training, Puppy Training, Behaviour Modification, Rehabilitation – Ottawa, Ottawa Area, Outaouais, Ottawa Valley

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Notes:

Please note - this article is for information purposes and is not a substitute for an in-person Session with me. When working with dogs I use many techniques - it is important to note that this article may touch on one or several techniques but not all. I select the technique that I use for a particular dog based on my observations of the dog and an intuitive, instinctive assessment of that dog's and its human's individual requirements. For example when I am working with a dog that is hyper sensitive and very physically reactive I will not use voice or touch. I use a lot of therapeutic touch on some dogs, others require the use of herding techniques and so on. Each and every technique must be combined with:

• an understanding of the real intelligence, sensitivity and capability of dogs;
• an understanding of how to read a dog's face and a dog's overall body language;
• an understanding of the full spectrum of ways that humans communicate and dogs communicate; 
• understanding and recognition of the individual that is each dog - no two dogs are the same...taking a 'cookie cutter' approach to techniques is not the way to work with a dog;
• a complete recognition and understanding of all the elements that feed a behaviour and create an issue:
•  the vast majority of people can only identify one or two elements...which vastly inhibits the ability to resolve behavior issues;
• behaviours do not exist in isolation - there are always many elements that feed a single behaviour, there all always multiple behaviours that create a behavioral issue;
• self-restraint and discipline on the part of the human who is directing the dog;
• sensitivity, awareness, intuition, instinct and timing on the part of the human who is directing the dog;
• to understand, connect with and adapt quickly and effectively to a dog's learning requirements you must be able to employ the same tools a dog uses - acute sensitivity, awareness, instinct, intuition and timing;
• kindness, endurance, consideration, patience, persistence, perspective, the ability and know how to let the past go, the ability to set realistic expectations at any one point in time;
• the creation of structure, rules, boundaries and limitations for each situation at the macro and micro level;
• understanding of all the elements that make up an instruction and direction to a dog...there are multiple steps involved in an instruction - not just one!
• absolute honesty - if you cannot be honest with yourself you will not be able to communicate clearly with a dog.

These are just some of the techniques that I teach my clients - it is a holistic, all-encompassing approach. If you are missing any one element of the above mentioned your success rate will be affected to one degree or another in implementing the techniques offered in the article presented above.

PROTECT YOUR DOG'S EARS FROM FROST BITE

HERE IS A SIMPLE TIP FOR THOSE WHO HAVE VERY SHORT HAIR DOGS, BOXERS, GREYHOUNDS, CHIHUAHUAS and the list goes on!

Ginger and Petroleum Jelly - simple, inexpensive and effective...

When the temperature goes below -20 Celsius, dogs with short fur can end up experiencing vascular damage to their ears (the first stage of frost bite) in a relatively short time period - development can occur during a 30 to 40 minute walk.

I noticed one day that my Boxer Robbie, was starting to get a cut at the edge of his ear. I thought it odd as I had not seen it there earlier in the day. With 10 dogs, you don’t run to the Veterinarian every time something comes up (non-emergency items). You try to see what conclusions you can come to first. So, I thought while we walked - he has not run since this morning -so it’s not a cut from dashing thorough the woods and he was not playing with his pack mates this morning. The temperature was in the -20’s, and there was a nasty wind-chill. In fact, we were experiencing multiple days of deep cold.  So I thought a little more, put two and two together and realized it had to be the start of frost bite!

I headed home with my pack and knew I would have to find a quick and affective remedy. He wears a coat in cold weather, but to cover his ears with a hood is not practical! 

Robbie, my Boxer

When seeking solutions I try to relate things back to how I treat similar conditions for myself. My hands get really beat up by the cold. Before I take the dogs for their walk in the depth of winter, I usually put a thin layer of petroleum jelly on my hands. That way if I have to take my gloves off, my hands have a little protection. And that was it! I figured petroleum jelly would work on him too!

So, I put petroleum jelly around the edges of my Boxer’s ears when we went out in the deep cold for our daily walks. It worked well. The cut healed back-up quickly despite that fact that he was out for two walks a day in the cold. He has never had a recurrence even when out in -30 Celsius.

The petroleum jelly gets absorbed into the skin so there is no greasy mess, even when you apply it on a daily basis. So, if you are taking your short hair dog out in extreme cold, don’t forget your dog’s jacket and put a little petroleum jelly all around the edge of his/her ears!

In the winter I also give him ginger (powder form, dried or fresh sliced) to help increase his circulation - this also helps stave-off frostbite.

WHEN A DOG IS CONSTANTLY SCRATCHING...Allergies, Other Causes, Treatment, Remedies

When a dog is scratching itself constantly, the source of the itch, rash, etc. may be the result of: 

An infestation of fleas; 

A reaction to another type of bug bite or even insect eggs that have been laid by a bug just under the first layer of skin;

Allergies to food or pesticides present in food stuffs, plants (including air born pollen, fungus, molds, etc.);

An allergic reaction to solvents and cleaners (i.e spray application - miniscule droplets/particles becoming airborne in the home or outdoor environment);

Allergies related to plants and pollen (seasonal or year round); 

Dry skin; 

Bacteria, fungus or yeast infection;

Scratching can also be an outlet for unspent energy or anxiety.
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Once in a while my Chihuahua will come into contact with a plant that he is allergic to - a dose of Benedryl resolves the rash and the itching for him.  

My Boxer is allergic to some vegetables (but not to fruit). He also has some environmental allergies - seasonal. I find adding two tablespoons of 100% pure aloe juice to his daily food helps a lot with his allergies. He is about 65 pounds. Remember what works for one dog may not work for another - just like with people. When my Australian Shepherd and my Alsatian x Alaskan Malamute get stung by bees or bitten by deer-fly they can get some really nasty swelling and irritation. Just like with us humans, some dogs are more sensitive to bug bites than others are.

Abby, Zoey, Stevie and Tasha on the trails

As I have a lot of experience with dogs I am often able to diagnose these things myself. Without this kind of experience you would likely have to see a Veterinarian to have the cause diagnosed. But, you can try to draw conclusions yourself if you wish to start the process yourself...

Think back to when your dog's scratching started:

See if you recall introducing any new food to his diet at the time;

Try to remember if something in his environment changed or a new item was introduced (new cleaning product, new plant in the house, etc.);

Is his scratching seasonal?

Did you start walking him somewhere different? Somewhere he may come into contact with a plant, fungus that he did not before (i.e. wooded trails, meadows as opposed to sidewalks or pavement).
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I also make sure my dogs get good fats - omega fatty acids 3 and 6 in the right balance from quality food sources, on a daily basis to support healthy fur, skin and immune system health. A lack of enough and good quality omega fatty acids can trigger allergies and a whole host of other health issues. If you would like to learn more about how to make sure your dog is getting the right kind of fats in the proper ratio from the best food sources you can read this article 'Fatty Acids for Dogs - Omega 3, Omega 6, Health Benefits, Best Sources, Dosage' 

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The following provides a little more in-depth information on allergies…

Foods: The common symptoms of food allergies consist of skin irritation, excessive itching, hair loss, and hot spots. In addition, they can cause the dog to have loose bowel movements and even cause them to throw up from time to time. There are a number of causes for food allergies including a built-up intolerance to beef, dairy products, chicken, corn and soy. Food allergies can develop over time making it all the more important to be aware of these symptoms. The easiest solution is to change to a different dry dog food and see if the skin problem clears up. But often the best solution is to get your dog off of commercially made dry dog food and instead feed your dog nutritious home made dog food.

Fleas: Much like food allergies, a dog may develop redness to the skin, become itchy, and may begin chewing in spots. The primary instigator of discomfort is the saliva of fleas that irritates the dog’s skin. Similar to mosquitoes, fleas suck blood from the dog.  If the dog has chewed his own skin, antibiotics will be sometimes needed, depending on the severity of the problem. I recommend going to your veterinarian to obtain the required flea treatment products. Do not buy off-the-shelf products from pet supply stores - these are not affective. You can also look into holistic treatments. Some dogs do have a reaction to the chemical based flea treatment products. 

Bacteria: Bacterial allergies can be identified by red blotches, pus pockets, hair loss and skin formation that looks like ringworm. Typically, bacteria allergies are secondary to other problems the dog may have such as parasitism or hormonal disorders. It is vital to get a blood test to see what the actual problem is.

Contact: The symptoms of contact allergies are very similar to flea and bacteria allergy symptoms. The cause of contact allergies is the dog coming into contact with allergens. Anything from materials used for bedding, chemicals, plants, or household cleaning products can bring on contact allergies. There are several different treatment methods including using a specially formulated  shampoo (available from your Veterinarian), a prescribed oral form of steroids, or any natural treatments like omega-3 and aloe vera juice.

Atopical: Atopical allergies start with itching, biting, hair loss and face rubbing. Other symptoms may be papules, which are small red bumps, or pustules, which are small pimple-like lesions. Atopical allergies are typically caused by fleas, but can also be caused by airborne, chemicals, and by many of the common products found in your home.
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I would just add, that it is important to remember that scratching can also be an outlet for unspent energy leading to anxious behaviors such as repeated scratching. It can also be an outlet for anxiety resulting from a state of insecurity. Make sure that your dog is getting the exercise and Leadership it requires. Remember - energy must out!

My Boxer has seasonal allergies. I find that adding two tablespoons of 100% aloe vera juice as well as coconut oil, herbs, good dog kibble and and fresh whole foods to his daily diet makes a big difference - his scratching and discomfort is greatly reduced! 

If your dog is suffering from skin irritations you can add rooibos tea to his/her diet as well as use the tea to topically treat the irritated spots. If your dog is suffering from candida you can use these herbal soaks to sooth itchiness and irritation. Many commercially manufactured dog shampoos contain chemicals that can trigger allergic reactions and help create a toxic burden in your dog.  Chemical based household cleaners are best replaced with natural, non-toxic household cleaners.

Robbie, my Boxer enjoying off-leash time on my trail

The following provides the dosages for Benedryl (below) but be careful - if the scratching persists you need to find a real solution - please remember Benedryl is not a cure it is only a band aid approach - it is better to find the cause and cure!

Here are the standard dosages for dogs - for Benadryl, based on body weight, & using a 25 mg tablet/capsule. The dosages are based on the dogs weight in kilograms - to convert to pounds...there are 2.5kg in a pound: <10 kg 1 tablet; 10-25 kg 1-2 tablets; > 25 kg 2 tablets. Frequency of dosage: every 8 hours.

To begin to track possible causes of allergies, I normally ask people to sit back, and think about when the scratching started and see they can draw some conclusions. You can then try to find a solution on your own...or go see your Vet. Either way don't leave it untreated to long!!!

21st Century Witch Hunt

We Americans are living in a state of moral panic. The general consensus is that PUPPY MILLS are a major problem today. Animal rights groups have whipped up a frenzy of hysteria against the perceived proliferation of abusive breeders. Ostensibly, they must be on every corner!

Oprah has produced a television expose to uncover "puppy mills". There was another recent feature called "Madonna of the Mills" intended to raise awareness on the issue, in case anyone might have missed the Gospel According to St. Oprah. The Oprah show also presented the president of the HSUS as a presumed authority on the topic.

The Humane Society of the US is so tuned into righting the wrongs of dog breeding that they now have a toll-free hot line for the express purpose of reporting of "puppy mills" by the public. [1] No description or definition is offered for that "PM" term, but hey, lets not let a little thing like knowing what we are talking about stand in the way of our hangin' fun times. 

Now the HSUS is in no position to sit in judgement of anyone else, with their fraudulent fundraising, and their illegal and immoral abuse of their tax-free status in lobbying for legislation to squelch animal ownership. They even promote policies that result in the killing of more and more animals in shelters. Nevertheless, the HSUS seems hell-bent on sitting as judge, jury and executioner of breeders, wherever they can find them. And now, they hope the public will make that discovery phase quick and easy for them. 

Not to be outdone, the Canadian SPCA is also urging the public to rat out the mills that they claim are "widespread". The definition used by the Canadian SPCA seems to be those who are unlicensed, or who sell for a profit, rather than those who are abusive and cruel. Again, just what exactly is a "puppy mill"? Depends on which way the wind is blowing. (2)

The public is bombarded with media propaganda produced by big national animal groups screaming inane slogans like "puppies aren't products" and "pets aren't presents"; we must "adopt not shop" and other lame, anti-consumerist messages. One might even be the target of righteous indignation should he <gasp> DARE to buy a puppy or kitten from a breeder or a pet store. Let's not forget the "hoarders" who may not actually breed but who need to be stopped nonetheless, and of course those ignorant "backyard breeders" too. We can lump those under the "puppy mill" umbrella if need be.

Of course, these tips to hotlines are meant to result in seizures of as many animals as possible. The AR groups love to seize animals and sterilize the lot of them. Even if the raids are eventually declared groundless or illegal, they will have achieved the goal of breaking the breeding cycle and bankrupting the owner, thereby destroying his or her life. Getting rid of a breeder....what a feather in the cap of the morally superior! And less births means less animals around for us cruel humans to abuse. The anti-breeding campaign will be relentless until people just plain no longer have animals in their homes.

AR mob leaders incite panicked townsfolk to lynch suspected witches. Can you survive the hysteria? Can they manage to find an actual witch?

From Wikipedia:

Witch hunt - A search for witches or evidence of witchcraft, often involving moral panic, mass hysteria and lynching, but in historical instances also legally sanctioned and involving official witchcraft trials.

From Cambridge Dictionary Online:

witch hunt - an attempt to find and punish people whose opinions are unpopular and who are said to be a danger to society 

From Your Dictionary:

A witch hunt describes a situation where accusations are made freely, especially against someone or something that is not popular with the majority.

From Answers.com;

An investigation carried out ostensibly to uncover subversive activities but actually used to harass and undermine those with differing views.

So if we don't agree with the extremists' views that breeding should be stopped, I suppose we have to expect the witch hunt. The majority view these days is that dog breeding = abuse. After just about any "rescue", you will read in a press release:

"She won't have to have any more puppies ever again."

The horror of it all! Breeding! Reproducing! Did we mention that the attitude is puritanical?  

More than 10,000 large, substandard mass producers of puppies, often referred to as puppy mills, house 200,000 to 400,000 breeding dogs that produce 2 million to 4 million puppies a year, estimates HSUS' Stephanie Shain, senior director its Stop Puppy Mills project. [1]

Ever wonder where in the world they pull those numbers from? Just out of thin air, or out of some orifice filled with hot air, anyway.

Don't put those pitchforks and torches away just yet, there's definitely a 21st century witch hunt in progress. Lynchings continue as they have for centuries. The script has been slightly rewritten, but the overall storyline remains unchanged. Today's witches include those vaguely  described puppy mills, hoarders and backyard breeders. We don't know exactly who they are and what they do, but one thing we do know; there are thousands of them and they must all burn at the stake!

     

[1] http://www.usatoday.com/life/lifestyle/pets/2009-12-09-puppymills09_ST_N.htm

[2] http://tinyurl.com/3lg5jvx